Hanle, in the Changthang region of eastern Ladakh, is one of the darkest and driest places in India. The air is thin, there is almost no light pollution and clouds are rare, which is why the Indian Astronomical Observatory sits on a nearby hill. In 2022 the area was set aside as India's first dark sky reserve.
It is remote, high and cold. A good trip here is mostly about three things: the right permit, the right acclimatisation and the right night.
Permits first
Hanle lies close to the border, so you need permission to go there.
- Indian nationals generally need an Inner Line Permit, issued through the Ladakh administration's official online system or the district office in Leh.
- Foreign nationals need a Protected Area Permit, which is arranged through a registered travel agency, normally for a group of at least two.
- Carry the original photo ID you used to apply, plus several printed copies. Checkposts on the way will ask for them.
Fees and procedures change from year to year, so confirm the current process before you book. We can help with the permit paperwork for trips that need it.
Roads beyond Hanle toward the far east are sensitive border areas. Do not assume you can travel there without specific, current permission. Umling La, for example, is often called the highest motorable road in the world, but that title is disputed and access depends on current rules.
Getting there
The usual route runs from Leh through Upshi, then along the Indus and Mahe region to Loma, Nyoma and finally Hanle. It is about 260 to 270 km and takes the better part of a day, with a long climb over high ground. Fuel is scarce beyond Leh, so fill up fully before you leave and ask locally about the nearest pump.
Acclimatise first
Hanle is at roughly 14,100 to 14,700 ft depending on where you stay. Do not fly into Leh and go straight there. Spend at least two nights in Leh first, drink plenty of water and see the AMS guide.
Timing your night
- Moon phase matters most. Aim for the four or five nights around the new moon. A bright moon washes out the Milky Way. Check a moon-phase calendar for your dates.
- Season. Travel is most comfortable from about May to October, and winters are extremely cold. In June to August the galactic core is visible from late evening, and the nights are cold but manageable.
- Weather. Skies are usually clear, but a cloudy night can happen. Allow two nights if you can.
Photography basics
- Use a sturdy tripod and a wide, fast lens (around f/2.8 or faster).
- Start around ISO 3200 to 6400, with 15 to 20 second exposures. Longer exposures will trail the stars.
- Focus manually on a bright star using live view, and check it again after the lens cools.
- Cold drains batteries. Keep spares warm in an inside pocket.
- Use a red light for your torch. White light ruins everyone's night vision, and the shots of the people around you.
The observatory itself is a working scientific facility, and visitors cannot simply walk in. Ask before you plan a visit.
Where you stay, and what to expect
Accommodation is simple: village homestays and seasonal camps. Electricity is limited, and mostly solar. Hot water and charging points can be unreliable. Nights stay near or below freezing even in summer, so bring a proper warm layer (see the 3-Layer packing guide).
Plan your Hanle night with a spare day. A single cloudy evening is common, and a spare day turns a gamble into a certainty.
— Skypath Field NotePlanning a Ladakh ride?
Ride out of Leh to Khardung La, Nubra and Pangong Tso, or take the full Manali – Leh – Manali highway.