Friendship Peak: Is It a Good First Snow Summit?

What the climb is like

The route follows the Beas Kund valley past Bakarthach to a base camp on the moraine, then uses a higher camp for the summit push. Summit day starts very early on firm snow, ropes up for the final ridge and usually takes eight to ten hours up and down. Our 8-day expedition builds in an acclimatisation and training day and a reserve day for weather.

What you need to bring

• Prior high-altitude trekking. A completed trek above 4,000 m, such as Hampta Pass or Bhrigu Lake, is the minimum we recommend.
• Good fitness. Long days, steep snow and a heavy pack. Train for four to six weeks with hill walks, stairs and a loaded backpack.
• A willingness to learn. You will practise walking in crampons, using an ice axe and moving on a rope team at base camp.

The real risks

• Altitude. Sleeping above 4,000 m and summiting above 5,000 m is a step up from trekking. Drink water, rest and report symptoms early.
• Snow and ice. Slips, crevasses and weak snow bridges are the main hazards on the glacier. Stay roped and follow your guide.
• Weather. Afternoon storms and whiteouts can end a summit attempt quickly. The plan allows a turn-around at any time.

Gear

You will need insulated mountaineering boots, a warm down jacket, shell layers, two pairs of gloves, glacier glasses and a headlamp. Technical gear such as crampons, harness and ice axe is needed on the route, so ask what is provided when you enquire.

A path to get there

A sensible progression is Beas Kund or Bhrigu Lake, then Hampta Pass, then Friendship Peak. See our trek comparison for how to choose the first two.