Zanskar is one of the most remote valleys in the Indian Himalaya. Above the village of Zangla, in a fold of the hills, stand the ruins of a royal palace, three storeys of old walls looking down over barley fields.
Few visitors reach it, which is why many call it a hidden palace.
The old kingdoms of Zanskar
Until the 15th century Zanskar was a mostly independent Buddhist kingdom ruled by two to four related royal families. In the early 17th century, it was brought into Ladakh by the king Sengge Namgyal. Local rulers, however, kept a role, and the royal line at Zangla is remembered to this day.
The royal palace at Padum was destroyed when Zanskar was invaded in 1822, so the ruined palace at Zangla is all the more precious as a surviving trace of that royal past.
The palace ruin
- A three-storey structure. The palace is described as a ruin of a 17th-century royal palace overlooking the village.
- Rescue. It was largely forgotten for a long time. A European heritage group is reported to have helped stabilise the building around 2008, when it was close to collapse.
- The royal family. Descendants of the old ruling family still live in Zangla, and an elder is known locally as the king of Zangla.
A scholar at Zangla
In 1823 the Hungarian scholar Sandor Csoma de Koros spent a long period in Zanskar working on Tibetan language studies, and he is often linked to a stay at Zangla. His work led to one of the first Tibetan-English dictionaries.
Getting there
- Road. The main road to Zanskar runs from Kargil over Pensi La at roughly 4,400 m to Padum, and is open only in the warmer months. Another route links Padum with Leh.
- Time and plan. Zanskar needs several days, and distances are long. Check road status and book transport ahead.
- Winter. Winters are harsh. The frozen Zanskar river is used for the Chadar trek in the coldest months, but that is for experienced groups.
Visiting with care
The palace is fragile. Do not climb unsafe walls, respect local families and give a donation or buy local goods when you can. For more on the region's past, read the story of Ladakh.
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