In the Sangla Valley of Kinnaur, Holi is not mainly a festival of coloured powder. It is a local festival, usually called Fagli or Phagli, that marks the end of winter. Villagers gather at the temple, dance in masks and perform stories from the Ramayana.
Dates, details and customs vary from village to village, so the story below is a general picture.
What Fagli is
- A four-day festival. Sangla Holi is described as part of a four-day Fagli festival, with Holi itself on the third day. The other days are for rituals, prayers and processions.
- The temple at the centre. The main ceremonies take place at the Nag temple in the valley, where local deities are honoured.
- An old tradition. Local accounts call the festival around 800 years old. Treat that figure as tradition rather than a proven date.
Masks, dance and stories
- Masks. The festival is sometimes called a festival of masks. Villagers dress as characters from the Ramayana, such as Rama, Sita and Hanuman.
- Phagli dance. Men and women dance together to drums and traditional instruments.
- Lamps. Oil lamps are lit, as in Diwali, to mark the arrival of spring.
- Food. A dish made of roasted barley flour and buttermilk, called totu, is shared as prasad.
Where and when
Sangla lies in the Baspa valley in Kinnaur at about 2,700 m. Fagli falls in late winter or early spring, usually February or March, and dates are set by local custom and the lunar calendar. Because published dates differ, confirm with the local panchayat or tourism office before you plan.
Attending respectfully
- You are a guest. This is a religious and community occasion, not a show.
- Ask before photographing. Especially near the temple and during rituals.
- Dress for cold. Nights are below freezing, and snow can close roads.
- Plan for weather. Allow extra days in case snow or landslides delay you.
Making a trip of it
Sangla is close to Kamru village and its old fort, and to Chitkul, the last village on the Baspa river. Learn more about the state in the story of Himachal Pradesh.
Plan a Kinnaur trip
Tell us your dates and we will plan travel for the festival season.